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目前位置:斯洛伐克 布拉提斯拉瓦 (延簽:暫時居留證)


Current Location: Bratislava,Slovakia (Prolonging: Temporary Residence)


短期租屋資訊!


我在Bratislava老城市中心有一間單人套房,專門給短期旅行跟打工渡假的朋友租賃。


詳情請見租屋相簿

 

(圖片來源:Tripline)

從台灣出發,第269天,在伊朗的霍梅尼機場,下定決心把剩下的錢拿去買張回到台灣的單程機票,第270天的晚上,回家。

 

當初推動這趟旅程的起始點,應該是在西藏之旅結束的青藏鐵路上,下定決心一定要在當兵結束後,來段更長更有意義的旅程。

在納木措明白一個人的心靈能夠多麼純淨,不論是否有著宗教信仰,都可以用自己的力量得到啟發。

總覺得這世間上還有很多事物等待我們去發掘,怎麼就葬送自己的人生給了金錢?

 

結束海軍的海上生活(應該說碼頭生活),找了份在青旅的工作,一方面希望可以廣結善緣來輔助自己的旅程,另一方面就是現實面,資金的來源。

九個月後的7月8日,一同前往北京"參訪"的朋友,站在基隆港目送搭夜船的我。

趁船裡的大家還在彼此熟識的時候,爬到了靠近船頭的地方,面著前進的方向,吹著海風也看著星空。我知道,不管下一條路是什麼,一定會撐著也要走完。

 

After 269 days,I was in Imam Khomeini airport and decided to spend the rest of the money to buy a ticket home.The very next day,I stood in front of my home,waiting my parents open the door for me.

When did I come up the idea to start such a journey?I asked myself.

I supposed it be on the train to Lhasa,Tibet,I made my mind that I need to do another time,more meaningful and profounder after my mandatory military service.

Back the time in Lhasa,I had a chance to go to the north of the city,to see their God's lake,Namutso(pronounciation).There,I experienced a tremendous and profound inspiration,which no one should have faith to get the enlightment from above but from your heart.Once you believe,you'll feel like a new sprout growing inside of you.

There are so many things we could spend time for,why to chase wealth instead of truth?

After the service,I found a manager job in a hostel in Tainan.In one hand,I hope I could meet people to train and maybe,these people could help me on the way;the other hand,I need a job to save money.

On 8th,July,two of my friends who has been to Beijing with me on visiting occasion,standing by the port and watching me leaving.

With the breeze on the deck and the quite night of see views,I know the dierction I'm heading for is the future,a future I'm looking for.

 

進到了第四次造訪的大陸,待了三個月。

去了一趟香港,更確定若真要像籠中鳥不用思考地過完一生,我寧可做一隻為生存而奮鬥的自由鳥。

In China,the fourth time.Three months to visit the provinces I've never been to.

I made a detour to Hong Kong.During the time in HK,I realized one thing:

If sacrificing my life for the life without self-thinking,I'd rather be free and chasing something I'm not sure whether I could but I love.

城市的陌生,香港  

陽朔遇見的生死離別,那一夜在河邊,我體認到人類再怎麼堅強,或是擁有再多的知識,當命運走到終結的時候,我們也只能低頭。

(在此祝沒有機會認識的小弟弟一路好走,希望你生命最後的70分鐘的CPR沒有讓你走的太痛苦。Rest in peace.)

In Yangshuo,I realized how fragile lives could be.When there's an end,no matter how rich or smart we are,we have to surrender.

(Rest in peace,my little friend.Hope the last 70 minutes of your life doesn't become worse with the first-aid procedure of CPR.)

遇龍河

走進了雲南,似乎走進了台灣的後花園和原住民一起玩樂的時光,他們不是中國人,而是擁有自己特色和靈魂的另一支種族。

Getting into Yunnan,I felt like living in the Eastern Taiwan,though there are no signs of oceans.

The people there are no Chinese,not only different but unique with their cultures and souls.

大家族 抵達上雨崩  

繞過東部後,轉折進入了內蒙古,而倦怠症也在這裡發作。

在橫跨沙漠邊際的過夜火車上,為了省錢而不買多餘的床位,選擇蹲坐在火車連結處,也沒有想到深秋深夜的沙漠會如此冷冽。

認識了身邊借我毛毯的大哥,見識到中國底層人民的生活狀況。

終於知道常常在車站見到拿來佔位的大行李包裡頭裝著什麼,簡單的生活用品,若是往東走,則是包著期待,若是往西走,則是包著失落。

逃離故鄉的大哥的隱情和外頭堆沙進廂的冷風一樣,殘酷冷冽的事實,吹了就不再回頭。

I got travel burnout sickness during the time in Inner-mongolia.

On the train through desserts,instead of sleeping on bed,I chose to sit with people in the connection compartment.I had no idea how freezing the night dessert could be.

There's a man who lent me blankets to make through the night and from him,I got closer to the lives of so we called "the  buttom of society."And this is the first time I know what's inside in the package for occupation I'd ever seen in the train station lobbies.Nothing but blankets and something easy to bring and throw away.

He has a story and the cruel fact is that he couldn't go back as long as he lives.

The cold winds still blow in,as freeze as the stories...

IMG_0129.JPG IMG_0247.JPG  

轉折出去的路線,最後和古代絲路搭上線。

在莫高窟來回遊蕩了幾次,還是選擇放棄買票入場。體認到自己沒有天分,如果連簡單的旅程都不能為自己選擇,我拿什麼談面對未來的勇氣。

Finally,getting back to the classic route of Silk Road.

In front of Mogao Caves and pondering,I chose not to buy ticket and left.I know I don't have it,the sense for ancient arts.

I didn't try and gave up for nothing(You could say maybe a bit for money.)

If I couldn't choose for myself and think in a winner way,I won't be prepared once I found out there's a part of thing that I couldn't make it. 

IMG_0551 (複製).JPG IMG_0554 (複製).JPG  

越過星星峽,正式進入中國官方所劃下的新疆區域。

"新疆很危險你不要去。"等等的言論在進入新疆之前就一直有接收到。

"我們(北疆)根本就是受到無妄之災。",無知的民眾都因為媒體大肆渲染,讓所有人一致認定"新疆"這個詞包含了北疆和南疆,也不知道真正在作亂或是主導恐怖活動的人是不是真的是維吾爾人。

"我們(南疆)只是想好好地過日子。",維吾爾人根本就是無辜的,和西藏一樣受到宗教迫害,他們自己也不知道那些維獨分子究竟是哪裡來的。

中國和巴基斯坦日漸交好,不曉得巴基斯坦人一旦知道中國人也在打壓自己的穆斯林同胞,那些基地組織是否會哪天"反攻"中國?或者是他們早已知道,而這些都是他們規畫好的?

Passing over the Star Valley,I was officially in XinJiang.

"It's dangerous there."

"We(North XinJiang) are irrelated with those things(massacre and terror attack) happened there."

"We(South XinJiang) just want to live peacefully."

We're ignorant unless experiencing.

The relationship between China and Pakistan is getting better.I wonder,if the Pakistanis know that the government of China keeps putting pressure on the Muslims in XinJiang,what will they do?

Or,we could suspect all the attacks are planned by THE group...

39.jpg 58.jpg 22.jpg 

新的國家 - 吉爾吉斯。

生活在這片草原的人民本就有著自由的心,從談吐和生活型態就感受的到。吉爾吉斯人只是有著俄羅斯的外表,但內心還是在草原上奔馳的駿馬!

在奧什認識巴基斯坦的朋友們,幾夜的伊斯蘭入門攻略和辯論,就配上幾夜的巴基斯坦經典美食。

在比什凱克認識敘利亞的朋友,陷入絕望和憎恨的難民,誓言總有一天要讓摧毀故鄉的正反雙方付出極大的代價。

在托克瑪克認識台灣的朋友們,熟識東干人、俄羅斯人和當地的吉爾吉斯人。

這是我用三個禮拜認識的吉爾吉斯,天堂馬國。

The first new - Kyrgyzstan.

They have free wills.People have the looks of Russia but deep inside,they're horses running the freeland.

Pakistanis I met in Osh.We had such nights having traditional dishes and debates on Islamic cultures.

Syrian I met in Bishkek,the sorrow and tragedies happening there in home country are undeniable.

Taiwaneses,Donggans,Russians,and Kyrgyzes in Tokmok.

Spend three weeks there and I call it as - The freeland of horses.

Ismoel Somoni Park Mubinjon Zarina family & Ismoel Khujand照相館的工作人員 Zarina極其朋友 熱心的Bibi 可愛的烤肉攤小朋友 

塔吉克,古波斯帝國的現今邊緣。

體認到身為波斯人的後裔,他們塔吉克人還是保有著這支民族中最純粹的美好 - 好客和笑容。

第一天抵達苦盞,被遠在近兩百公里遠的艾尼村村民邀請到村裡作客,四天的自然仙境至今讓我流連忘返。

在苦盞認識的地下販毒組織和第一次品嘗的類毒品"Nose"。

在Soghdiana(索格迪亞那,費爾甘納山谷的一部份)認識的Muhsin、Ismoe及Zarina一家人。

在Oshoba山谷中,認識了一位堅強的老太太。一個人走過人生長途,因為同一種神祕疾病帶走了老伴和兒子,女兒也因為遠嫁而不在身邊,而我的出現卻是她目前一生中最快樂的驚喜。

烤肉店好奇的小女孩,全家人都有著堅強又美麗的面孔,在這片沙漠綠洲上繼續生存。

The edge of ancient Persian Empire - Tajikistan.

Tajiks still keep the beauty of Persian,these are hospitality and smiles.

I got invited by the locals whose houses are almost 200 kilometers away from Khujand,the city I just arrived.

The underground drug sellers invited me tasting NOSE,the first semi-drug I'd ever tasted.

Meeting Ismoel,Muhsin,and Zarina family is one of the best memories in the journey.

There's an old lady who endured the sorrow of passing son and husband,who died of the same mysterious diseases.Without daughter who married and being alone,she still stands.

The little girl in the kebab stand,her family all has beautiful faces and minds.Trying to survive in the small oasis. 

Registon Shah i Zinda Ensemble 下雪的Registon 鹹海遺跡 希瓦古城一景-Shergozikhan Madrassah      

夢想中的事實就是,那不一定美好。

雖然踏上了撒馬爾罕和布哈拉等因為絲路而興盛的古代城市,卻找不到內心嚮往的絲路面貌。縱使有花剌子模和帖木兒的加持,這裡卻早已不是我想像中的烏茲別克。

撒馬爾罕送我的道別禮是一場下了整夜的大雪,和早晨沒人踏過的白雪大道廣場。

一個人走在夜晚的布哈拉古城,有種蕭條的氛圍,冷颯的寒風迴繞在古城的老市集裡。

烏茲別克確實很美,但已成為過往,而不是值得再提上心頭的回憶。

The dreams we wondered are not always the truths.

I couldn't find the views I dreamed for Silk Road though I was in the ancient cities like Samarkand and Bukhara.What I read on the books and stories about Khorazam and Timur are not the scenes here in Uzbekistan.

Samarkand farewelled me with whole night snow and pure-white paveway no one even stepped on it.

Freezing cold wind blew through the whole city of Bukhara and the shadow of me seems like a loner.

It's really beautiful in Uzbekistan but I'll keep it as some places I'd been instead of memories.

IMG_2887 (複製).JPG IMG_2779 (複製).JPG IMG_2675 (複製).JPG IMG_2580 (複製).JPG 阿富汗士兵 IMG_2400 (複製).JPG 點心攤的兄弟倆 貨幣黑市   

還能見到陽光的生活,不算太慘淡。

走過一趟溫戰區,你會曉得現在生活中的各種美好,只是維繫在一條鋼索上,只要這個世界輕輕轉動所製造出來的微風,都可以輕易地將你打垮。

這就是阿富汗人的心聲,過去的輝煌竟然被北方而來的蘇聯和國家內部產生已久的種族鬥爭,就如彈指一般,摧毀後消失,再也沒有回來的跡象。

這裡是古波斯帝國的第二分離國,因為更靠近古波斯,所有的一切就好像伊朗的鏡像。什麼都很像,但就是命運不一樣。

 

阿富汗給我的衝擊,這輩子也忘不了。

大多數人都想得到跨越國境的機會,一旦跨越就等於宣告自己的人生已經脫離苦海一半。

短短的18天內,發生了三起爆炸案,其中還包括我曾步行過的街區,如今只剩巴士轟炸完的燒焦鋼架,還有永遠抹不滅的陰影。

巴米揚的世界,現在剩下的只是用血和淚編織出來的生活。想像不到絲路線上曾經繁榮的大城,如今只剩下一條大街,和生人永不得進入的地雷菜園。

矗立在山谷之上的那些古城也已乏人問津,自己的生命就如同薄紙般而那些尖刺在一旁伺機而動,這時談什麼生活,就連談生與死都是無益的。

我們還能用薪水去換得我也不曾在乎過的確幸,他們是用薪水,點滴累積出足夠的機會,奮力一搏逃出這個被巒峰和恐怖份子包圍的山與谷。

 

全國曾經飛揚的風箏,要到哪時候才能再度自由地在天空搏鬥自己的人生?

The life with a beam of light is not really miserable.

Our lives are like being on a string.No matter how great or rich we are,as the globe makes a little twist,lives would just vanish and sometimes,they never come back.

This is how Afghanis think,All the thing glory is destroyed by the ambition from the north and the struggles between those who faught for power,instead of the happiness of people.Snap!The lives they had never come back.

Here's the second Persian country,like a sibling of Iran because they're closer.But the fate plays hard on them.

 

I'll never forget the impacts Afghanistan gave to me.

Most of them just eager to seize the chances to cross the border.Once you made,you're half way to dreamland.

During 18 days in Kabul,there were 3 explosions happened in the city and two of them are the places I'd just been to.I was wondering how cruel and brute they could be to murder citizens for fulfilling their ambitions.

The lives in Bamyan were true hell on earth.If you've ever read the books and novels about Hazoras,you'll see the exact the way it seems in reality.They're group of people with different aspects toward religion and cultures and they were massacred and treated like slaves throughout the whole country.

Here was once the greatest city on Silk Road and now the things left are lifeless main street and huge part of lands with landmines underneath.

All the ancient buildings on the tops of hills are fading,as the lives of Bamyan.No one could spend their efforts once their lives are also in danger.Life?Become an easy word to say.

We spend our what we earned to buy the happiness we've never appreciated;they spend what they earn to accumulate the possibilities to grasp the chances,escaping the terror valley.

 

The kites once flew in the sky.Is there any chance they could see it once again?

戈爾甘一家人 德黑蘭國慶 伊斯法罕朋友們 Bam - 巴姆古城再度重逢 Hamzeh - from Bandar-e Abbas Mohsen一家人 草地上等待放假的士兵 Afsaneh義大利麵  

快樂是一生,不快樂也是一生。

對於伊朗,我想這句話已經可以概括大多數伊朗人的心情。

 

他們確實沒有強大的政府,也不是強大的經濟體,人民生活不是開心,但只要人還能活著,不就上天賜予的最佳的禮物了嗎?

他們並不快樂,但他們會想辦法不去在乎這些。因為怎麼在乎,政府永遠聽不見聲音,只會順從著1979年訂下的體制和規則,繼續鑽著漏洞,繼續貪汙。

他們很會故作堅強,因為讓別人知道自己的故事也沒有幫助,只能在夜深人靜的時候,靜靜地回想那些過去還在手中的歡笑回憶。

To be happy or not?that's your choice.

This is one thing when talking about Iranians.

 

They don't really have wholesome government systems nor powerful economy.Iranians endure everything and try to make guests and friends believe they're contented.

In fact,they're not.But they'll try to find ways not to care about.Because deep inside they know,no matter how they care,the government won't hear anything,it only follows the systems they formulated in 1979 and the following power-holders take these as weapons to threaten people and reinforce their own ivory tower.

They're tough as their looks,excepts for the nights,especially quiet and alone,they would read memories which were once in their hands.

 

人生不過就是這回事。

你開心也好、難過也好;成功也好、失敗也好;不管哪種正反兩面的詞都好,人生就是這樣而已。

選擇權都在自己身上,也不用談什麼值得或後悔,你選擇了什麼,是你自己的心意。

有人選擇窮這麼一輩子,也不要鞠躬哈腰;但有些人就是要去鞠躬哈腰,也不要窮一輩子。

那都只是一線之隔罷了。

C'est la vie.

Happy/Sad,Success/fail,no matter what kind of two-sided words to be used.C'est la vie.

All the things you have now is caused by the choices you made and worth and regret are not necessary to talk about.

Whatever you chose,it's all from your side.

Some chooses to be poor,rather to surrender to reality,vice versa. 

 

教會你的,你不會的。

沒必要嘆息,因為沒有時間嘆息;沒必要驕傲,因為沒有資產驕傲。

有人喜歡在家用電視看世界;有人喜歡親自體驗這個世界,用書籍來獲取一切知識;或用最簡單的五官來體驗知識。

如果仔細觀察和分辨,很多人的生活其實跟生活在戰區沒有兩樣,若就心理層面來說,這些生活或許比我們認為的悲慘生活還要來的悲慘。

What you've been told and those you're not.

No time to sigh and nothing to be proud of.

Some watches TV to browse the world;some love to experience on their own.Some gather knowledge from books;some experience from their senses.

If we look deep,we'll realize lots of people around us are actually live in the hells on earth.Their lives are nothing better than those in war zones.Even more,somehow they're more miserable.

 

走在這條路上,是真的有很多岔路,不僅僅是二分法,在這複雜的人生中還有衍生出來的小徑和巷弄要選擇。

就如同時間一樣,不管你選不選擇,身上的腳就是停不下來,能做的只是一直選擇直到終老。

如果體認到這條路上的選擇只有你能做,還在乎這條路上其他的眼光或是言語嗎?

 

不管在哪裡,永遠都在這條路上。

There are so many paths to choose on the way.

Some of them couldn't be devided by two because there are more than we think hiding underneath every major choice.

Our steps are like the stream of time,never stop for anyone.What we could do is to choose and live with it until we're old enough to walk.

If seeing through the whole process and finding out we're the only person who could make choice for ourselves,would you ever care about what others think or say?

 

No matter where you are,you're on THE way from now and for good.

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  • milstein
  • 你的旅行真的很棒,更棒的還是你在這趟旅程之中,那種對"在路上"這件事情本身的感悟.....
  • ^^謝謝。
    我想大多數的人其實都會有相同感受,我是指願意揹著行囊走長途的朋友。

    斑馬 於 2014/05/01 21:08 回覆

  • Kyle Wang
  • 最後沒去成伊拉克真的好可惜
    我原本超期待伊拉克的遊記呢
    背包客棧上的人大多只去了伊北庫德斯坦自治區
    真正到巴格達.巴比倫等地的印象中還沒看過

    從中亞那段開始follow你的旅程
    我很喜歡看文字量偏多的遊記
    因為可以從文字中可以看出作者對於國際政治、人文關懷等自己的看法
    這種理性感性兼具的遊記讀起來比起一般只有海量照片的遊記有感覺多了
    斑馬大真的不考慮出書嗎?(印象中有一篇遊記中你有提到有關出書的事)
    如果出書我一定會去買的XD

    今年夏天7.8月左右我會再去一次伊朗(還有土東.喬治亞.亞美尼亞)
    如果斑馬大那時也在伊朗的話
    有機會希望可以約個時間地點見上一面!
  • 嘿!
    感謝你的支持啊!
    我確實已經在著手進行寫書一事,不過憑我的速度不知道哪時候可以真正被拿在手上^^。

    伊拉克的政治風暴還在蔓延,我估計我若能進去(大約10或11月),或許會更大,還在觀望中@@。
    好酷喔!那時候去那裡超級熱的啊!!!又不能穿短褲,還有Ramandan,你要不要考慮八月再去啊XDD?

    我現在人在台灣啊!還沒出發下一段。
    下一段完全沒計畫,說不定真能在路上見一面^^

    斑馬 於 2014/05/01 21:12 回覆

  • 牛大
  • 你好 看了你的文章 心中充滿感動!

    想請問青旅的工作是指? 有門檻嗎?

    能否請問您這趟旅程 大約花了多少$$ (可以多算)
  • 哈囉!
    謝謝你^^

    青年旅社,台灣各地目前都有開設,你可以上網查。
    最基本就是語言能力囉,其他的經驗當然再往上加。不過因為目前台灣的青旅都偏向私人經營,所以各地所開出的薪資價格和能力所需都不太一樣。

    我大概花了15萬,包含簽證和回程機票(德黑蘭-台灣)。

    希望有幫到你^^

    斑馬 於 2014/05/06 09:33 回覆

  • Elaine Chen
  • 你好:我想請問哈薩克和塔吉克再辦理落地簽的時候需要出示工作證明嗎?
  • 妳好,

    哈薩克就我目前手邊的資訊是沒有台灣人或中國人可以持觀光簽入境,工作簽不知道。

    塔吉克的觀光落地簽理應是也是很好拿的,但若是觀光簽不需要工作證明@@,妳的狀況我不是很了解,是去那裡工作嗎?

    斑馬 於 2014/05/21 14:22 回覆