斑馬日記 ZebraDiary

*以下資料更新於28/01/2014。The information is updated on 28/01/2014.English is available at the end.

*前情提要：

12/27從烏茲別克南方-泰爾梅茲進入阿富汗北境，於該日還在烏茲別克方時就在當地的銀行匯款至伊朗旅行社以辦理邀請函號(Reference Number)。

並於當日就寄了Email給旅行社。

只可惜天不從人願，伊朗旅行社似乎不知道什麼叫做MoneyGram(台灣譯作速匯金)，直到我6號和8號各寄了Email詢問，並加重語氣才得到旅行社的快速回覆，說他們不知道我用的是什麼系統，並且沒有在他們的帳戶裡收到款項。

在匯款前三日就已經詢問是否能夠使用該系統，並且重複確認入境日期，但從寄出Email到匯款前夕，完全沒有收到旅行社的回覆。

9號他們再度發Email過來，說他們的老闆不能親自到有MoneyGram系統的銀行提款，但會直接幫我申請函號。

直到我的阿富汗簽證即將過期，仍然沒有收到旅行社的消息。

不得已才轉方向到辦理阿富汗延簽的這條路，雖然這條資訊的實用度不高，而且未來因國情轉向可能又會有所不同，但還是忠於分享的想法和大家述說延簽經驗。

以下是在喀布爾辦理延簽(Extension visa)的過程：

準備資料：

1.2張的大頭照。

2.護照影本 & 簽證影本。(黑白/彩色各一份)

3.美金100元。

申請流程：

1.首先，必須到位於喀布爾的 Ministry of Information and Culture，地理位置在Abdur Rahman清真寺隔街的大樓裡，大樓有藍底白字的經文和太陽圖騰，附近只有這麼一棟大樓有此特徵。

2.經過三道檢查哨後，進入大樓。直抵四樓，上到四樓後對面的房間從右邊數來第二間，就是取得延簽申請的所在地。若找不到可以問任何人，說是要辦理延簽(Visa Extension)即可。

3.繳交護照影本和簽證影本(黑白)，承辦人會手寫一紙信函，並在"他的老闆"簽名後，會把信函轉交給你，並指示攜帶這封信件到另一個辦事處。請承辦人紀錄地址在信函上以方便問路。

4.找到Asmoi路(其實就是大樓底下的十字路口的其中一條)，直走過了國家美術館後，注意左側建築物，附有哨口的就問一下是不是這裡。

5.進入Afghan Tour Office，直達二樓(屋頂)的辦公室，並將信函繳交給他。另外得再填寫申請表並繳交一張照片，請注意，會詢問在喀布爾的住宿地址。

6.於指定時間回去領取公文，辦事人員會告訴你隔天早上七點前抵達在Darulamen路的Passport and visa office。

7.於指定時間抵達PVO，在外頭會有很多複印的小攤販，可以在這裡取得彩色複印本。請記得在這裡買申請表公文，辦公室裡不會提供。經過兩道檢查哨，進入大門後直接右轉小巷子會到Foreigner's office，這裡專辦外國護照的各項事宜。早上七點前抵達就是要開始排隊。繳交彩色複印的護照影本和簽證影本以及一張大頭照。

8.他們會開立一張帳單，要求你到指定銀行付款50美元，再持收據回到辦公室以領取延簽。

經驗分享：

1.申請延簽過程中，可能會有承辦人向你壓榨一些你從沒想過的物品。此次承辦到第一次取得信函前都非常順利，抵達辦事處時，被承辦人員半要脅地要我拍張他的照片並洗出來給他，否則不給辦延簽。在阿富汗，只要有需碰到和政府機關相關的手續，絕對要遵守一個原則，唯命是從。這個國家的政府機關貪污嚴重，很多事情只要一點"Commission"，保證手續會比你想像中地快。如果有不從的傾向出現，不管你是不是外國人，他們可以把你搞到天翻地覆，甚至在此之後，你還是得不到你想要的。所以切記，態度是決定你能不能成功的第一要件。

2.持台灣護照，基本上不可能在駐阿富汗的巴基斯坦大使館取得簽證，縱使可以辦，也只能商務簽和工作簽，再縱使拿到了簽證，也只能從喀布爾飛巴基斯坦，邊境口岸是不開放任何外國人通行的。如果和我有相同狀況(伊朗簽證出不來)，可以選擇去塔吉克大使館拿簽證(不需要任何邀請函)，跑去塔吉克後再從杜尚別拿阿富汗簽證回來，但是是否有和伊朗的相同限制(取得觀光簽後須等一個月才能再度申請觀光簽)就不得而知了。

*PS：從PVO那裏開始，我就放棄了辦理延簽。我知道自己已經付了50美金，但是再付50美金跟待在喀布爾，我寧可選擇直接去邊境付罰金。(所以當初的50美金白付了)

*PS：補充說明，邊境付罰金被我親身體驗過後，可以告訴各位是不可行的！請乖乖地拿延簽或離境簽。

*PS：根據阿富汗MFA的網站表示，簽證過期的第一天開始計算，每天要付罰金兩美元，過期後的第二個月開始是每天五塊美元，過期兩個月後再不出境，被發現就是付完罰金再被遣返回國。原則上沒有寫說被禁止在幾年內不得入境阿富汗。

以下是赫拉特取得離境簽(Exit visa)的過程：

準備物品：

1. 兩組彩色複印本(護照和簽證)。

2. 護照正本。

3. 簽證申請表。(於相關辦公室內領取)。

4. 大頭照一張。

申請流程：

1. 首先，到赫拉特市中心的Afghanistan Tourism Office(ATO)，位於Jada Walayat路上，介於Jada Shamali路和Qumandani Amniya路之間，建築物外觀不明顯但是有招牌可以辨認。

2. 在那裡取得申請信函，美金10元。

3. 取得信函後，到大清真寺對面的警察局辦理手續。

4. 進入警察局後，會看見一個大廣場，走到直面入口處的建築物(約有200公尺遠)，到二樓詢問哪裡可以得到Commander的戳章。

5. 取得戳章後，先到Passport and Visa Office(PVO)(也在警察局內)取得簽證申請表，這一步可以試試看在拿戳章那關取得。PVO外頭排隊的人非常多，如果入口警衛不讓你進入，找個可靠一點的士兵幫你，可以直接進入PVO，不需排隊。進入後找到右手邊第一間辦公室取得申請表。

6. 取得申請表並填寫完畢後，到取得戳章的隔壁大樓(有暗藍色窗戶)的二樓詢問哪裡試辦簽的辦公室，找到後繳交一組彩色複印本，辦事人員會告訴你拿著本來的信函(from ATO)去PVO。

7. 再度進入PVO的同一間辦公室，辦事人員會開立銀行繳款單，並告訴你去Da Afghanistan Bank繳款。幸運的是，這間銀行就在Jada Walayat路和Qumandani Amniya路的轉角處。因為這次的簽證費有包含過期簽證的罰金，雖然不敢肯定價格，但絕對少於15美金。

8. 繳完款三度回到PVO辦公室，繳交另一組彩色複印本及辦事人員確認繳款完成後，會告知隔天來取護照和離境簽。

*經驗分享：

1. 整個流程在警察局內，可能隨時都會被士兵要求付錢，絕對不要理會，因為他們也不知道你的流程應該怎麼走。

2. 關於阿富汗MFA網站上說的邊境繳款是不可能的，親身體驗過，所以還是乖乖地辦理延簽或離境簽吧！

3. 離境簽有六天效期，六天之內都可以持離境簽離境。

*Previously:

On 27/12/2013,I remitted the fee the travel agency said in Uzbekistan with MoneyGram and on the same day,I emailed them for notice.

Before the remittance,I sent to them for asking if I could use MoneyGram and recheck the entry dates with them.As they didn't reply me for 3 days,I decided to remit without waiting.

On 28th,they soon replied me and told me to wait until they received the fee.

Until 6th,Jan.,I still didn't get any reply so deciding to send again.On 8th,they still didn't reply anything.

So I emailed them with strong words and request them to reply whether they had answers or not.And,amazingly,they replied on the same day and told me they did not get the money.It turns out that they had no ideas when I mentioned MoneyGram.

So I wasted 11 days,which I might probably get the number to apply visa,and said to them no matter what,fix the problems you made.

On 9th,they didn't say any word like apologies and constrainedly said they will apply my number.

Until now,I received no reply or answers from them,even I've already sent 2 letters to them for asking the process.

I know the information of visa extension in Afghanistan could change repidly since the situstions could turn down pretty fast,still,I post the experiences and procedures to whom may need.

Down below is the processes for extension visa in Kabul：

*Prepare:

1. 2 passport photos.

2. Copies of passport and Afghanistan visa.(Black&white and colored copies.)

3. US$100.

*Procedures:

1. Go to the Ministry of Information and Culture.It's across the street from Abdur Rahman Mosque.At there,you will see a building with white scripts on blue and a sign like sun.There's only one building looks like this.

2. After 3 check points,you'll get into the building and go 4th floor.Across the corridor and the second door from the right would be the place to get letter.

3. The staff inside could speak English.You need to hand in the copies and he will write a letter for you and tell you he needs signature from "his boss" and after that,you could take the letter to another place.Ask him to write the address or information of that place.

4. Find Asmoi Rd.,where is exactly one of the road on intersection beside the building.Walk for 500 meters,after passing by National Gallery and Museum,find buildings with check point in front.It should be close to the National Gallery and Museum.

5. Get inside and go 2nd floor(you could also say rooftop),go into the office and then show them the letter.You'll have to fill in application of visa and hand in 1 passport photo.Also,remember where you stay,they'll ask you to write it down.

6. The next day,go to the same place for the letter and pay US$50.You will be told to take this letter to the Passport and Visa Office(PVO)on Darulamen Rd. at 7 next morning.

7. Arrive there on time!Because you'll have to face a long queue.When you arrive outside of the office,you will see lots of stands for copies and applications.Remember to buy the application because they won't provide you anything in the office.

8. Get in line and prepare everything they asked(The colored copies of passport and visa).When it's your turn,they'll give you a bill which you have to pay in specific banks.After the payment is done,go back to the office and they will tell you when to pick up the extension visa.

*Experience:

1. The last thing you want to do is having argues with those people who worked for government.If you do,you'll never know what they could do on you.I don't mean phisical hurts,instead,they could make your way much harder and you don't even know that's necessary or not.

For my experience,it went fine until I got to the office where I handed in my letter.The guy who was in charge is a Fuxking asshole.I gave him the letter and he just kept asking me if I had cameras.I pretended I don't have any,then he said,

"No photo,no visa."

Turns out he asked me to take a photo of him and print it out and gave to him the next day.I thought he was joking but he wasn't even I said"Seriously,where could I get the Extension visa?",he kept saying the sentence,which made me really angry.

Luckily,I had a friend with me and after negotiation,I agreed to print it out and he promised me to make the application faster.

Not everything goes well every time.But SERIOUSLY,if you have to deal sth with the afghan GOV,just do whatever they ask as long as it's not a big deal.OR you would have to enjoy the BIGGEST ASS TROUBLE in your life.

*PS：from the passport office,I gave up the procedure and tried to pay the fine(US$2 per day after expiry) at the border,which it's specified on the website of Ministry of Foreign Affair.

*PS：About paying fines at borders,it's a false information.So,just pay the money and time to obtain extension visa or exit visa.

*PS：From the first day of expiry,you'll have to pay US$2 per day for fine.The second month would become US$5 per day and if the 2 months duration had passed,you'll be deported with the fines are paid.

Down below is the processes for exit visa in Herat：

*Prepare:

1. Two sets of colored copies(Passport and visa).

2. Passport.

3. Visa Application.(From the office in the police station)

4. One passport photo.

*Procedures:

1. First,go to the Afghanistan Tourism Office(ATO).It's on Jada Walayat Rd. between Jada Shamali Rd. and Qumandani Amniya Rd. and the outlook may not be so obvious but with signs on it.

2. Get a letter for $10.

3. Second,go to the police station across from the Blue Mosque.

4. After entering,you'll see a huge square.Walking to the building facing toward the entrance(about 200m) then on the second floor,ask about where to get stamp from one of the commander.

5. Third,go to Passport and Visa Office(PVO)(Also in the station) to get visa application.(You could also try to get that where you get the stamp.)There's always long queue outside of PVO.If you're stopped by the guard at entrance,you could find one of the soldier to make a way to get in.After getting in,the first office on the right hand side is the place to obtain application.

6. Fourth,fill up the form and take all the paperwork to the building(with dark blue windows) next to the first one for stamp.Get to the second floor and ask about where to apply visa.Then,hand in one set of copies and they'll tell to go to PVO with the letter from ATO.

7. Get in PVO again,the staff would check the paperwork and give you a payment bill,telling you to go Da Afghanistan Bank to pay the charge.Luckily,the bank is on the corner of Jada Walayat Rd. and Qumandani Amniya Rd..I'm not sure of the charge for exit visa because I got fined of expiry.It must be less than $15.

8. Pay the bill and bring the slip by the bank back to PVO.Hand in one set of colored copies and the staff would check again.He'll tell you to come back to pick up the visa next day.

*Experiences：

1. You might get caught by some soldiers asking for bribe.Do IGNORE them because they don't know anything more than you do.

2. About the information to pay bribe at ports on the MFA website,it's totally wrong!So,just get extension or exit visa for legal stay.

3. Exit visa available for 6 days.You could leave Afghanistan within the duration.